Ireland

The penultimate post- concluding thoughts and observations to follow.

I went to Ireland for a week, and since I was with my brother James we stayed in nice places and ate (and drank) very well. The first stop was Belfast, the Northern Irish city whose 20^th-century struggles with violent sectarianism are known to many. The city has made a huge effort to clean up its image and market itself to visitors, and I must admit it was nothing like what I expected. The nightlife was definitely visible and the CBD seemed dense, but an almost small-town charm could also be felt in Belfast. One evening we went to a great Indian place claiming to be “Ireland’s first curry house”, and the next night we found a cozy pub with live traditional music. One day was almost entirely spent on a day-trip to the Giants Causeway, which also had stops at the Bushmills Distillery for lunch and the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. The Causeway was definitely worth seeing, and the Antrim Coast Road was beautiful in its own right, but I do wish I had spent another day in Belfast itself, before catching the train down to Dublin. James said he actually preferred Belfast to its larger Southern counterpart, although I’m not quite sure. 

In Dublin we visited the Guinness distillery, which is a seven-story building shaped like a pint glass. Entry is something like €12 ($15), but that gets you a free pint at the bar on the top floor, which has great views of the city. Another day was spent in the seaside village of Howth, north of the city, which has a great hiking trail along the cliffs which border the Irish Sea. Since I needed to mail some things, we had an excuse to visit the Dublin General Post Office, an important site in the Easter Rising of 1916 (the exterior columns famously still have visible bullet-marks on them) which now also houses a small museum. A literary pub crawl on the last evening left me incredibly tired and hung-over for my 6:30am flight back to Edinburgh, but was definitely worth it. I don’t know many other people who have downed pints in Davy Byrnes’ Pub, a favorite of James Joyce. Overall, to my American eyes and ears, Dublin seemed a lot like a UK city, with a number of distinctively (maybe deliberately) Irish symbols. The use of Irish Gaelic alongside English on most public signs, for example, was very interesting but seemed more like a conscious effort to show nationalistic pride than a convenience to Irish Gaelic monoglots (which I’m reasonably certain don’t exist).  But to conclude, I hugely enjoyed the trip, and I’d like to see more of Ireland one day. Nothing beats sitting in a Dublin pub and hearing a local band play “Galway Girl” while you reflect on the history of this island, and its influence on Britain, America and elsewhere. 

Giants Causeway (photo credit: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/369) 

                                                     

Belfast from the hills to the west (photo credit: www.odysseycoachtours.co.uk)                      

The top of the pint glass at the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin, where you get a free pint and great views (photo credit: http://www.free-city-guides.com/dublin/guinness-storehouse/)               

 

 Davy Byrnes' pub, probably on Bloomsday (photo credit: http://www.stay.com/dublin/bar-pub/11873/davy-byrne-s/)

Turkey

 Here goes part 1 of my 3-part, way overdue conclusion to the travel blog. Part 2 will focus on my trip to Ireland, and part 3 will be a summary of some things I have observed and concluded. Here goes.

The truth is, neither of us really knew what to expect in Istanbul. The old saying about being where "East meets West" is certainly true, although the West involved here is Eastern Europe, which is very different from the West that an American is used to. I guess my point is, the place actually felt more Eastern than either Tiz or I was expecting. What do I mean? 

Before we ever stepped foot into our hotel, we were accidentally treated to a taxi ride into a residential area far from the touristy city center, a region called Eyüp. It was a fascinating half hour or so, since there was not a Westerner in sight and the streets were busy and narrow and and clogged with schoolboys playing soccer and you had to honk at them to create just enough space to barely squeeze through. By the time we and our driver realized that he had taken us to the wrong Piyerloti Caddesi (Road), Tiz and I both knew that we had already experienced the most culture shock of anywhere we would see. And we were right, as most of our remaining time was spent doing touristy things in the largely Westernized Sultanahment district. 

But even there, you didn't feel like you were in the West really. The call to prayer which echoed from every nearby mosque (and there were many) often served as a reminder of this. Several times we had settled into a nice dinner at a European-style restaurant only to have this fascinating, melodic chanting shake us from that feeling of familiarity with our surroundings. Part of the charm of Istanbul is that you always feel like you have to be on your toes. 

I'll be brief when discussing the touristy sites we visited: they were all as incredible as I expected. In particular the Hagia Sophia (20 TL, about $11 or £7) was great; how could a 1500-year old Byzantine church turned Ottoman mosque turned modern museum not be?  We also loved the Grand Bazaar, a massive indoor market which was the trading center of the Ottoman Empire starting in the 1400s. It's crazy to imagine yourself in a bustling marketplace where once people from all over the empire, Budapest to Baghdad, came to buy and sell their goods. Americans might think of Turkey as peripheral in this modern age, but this place was once the center of the universe, and that feeling is unmistakable. Also, it's the custom to haggle over prices at the Grand Bazaar, and that was a good bit of fun too. 

If you have any questions about traveling to Istanbul (what to see, safety tips, etc.) feel free to comment below or ask me in person if you get the chance. Photos below. 

 

 Inside the Hagia Sophia

 

a very small part of the Grand Bazaar

 Turkish sweets- so good!

 

 Tiz inside the Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque)- head coverings for women are mandatory!

 

 çay (the same word as chai, the tea) - Turkish tea with those delightfully shaped glasses

 

the rooftop restaurant on our final evening- the views were amazing

The Frozen North (and other directions)

I made a goal last month to get out and explore Scotland, as I felt like I had barely left Edinburgh in my first 60 days. I have done that, with three trips in the last month to Aviemore, Stirling/Loch Lomond, and Dunnottar Castle.
Aviemore was my first journey, and a slightly disappointing one honestly. It's located in a valley within the Cairngorms, a mountain range that offers great skiing in the winter and other outdoor activities such as hiking in the summer. Unfortunately, I visited in the (still chilly) springtime, between the two peak tourist seasons. I also visited by myself, without any plans, and without any way to really get around. The actual mountains were probably a 10-15 minute car ride away, but although I could see their snowy peaks from the town I could get no closer. I did find some enjoyment in the train ride from Edinburgh, which provided some great scenery. A nice nature walk in the village also had some great views. But my favorite part of the day was walking into the local pub at 11:30am and being told that food wasn't served until noon, but I could order a pint (which I did)! To the best of my knowledge, serving alcohol before noon is highly unusual (if not illegal) where I come from.
10 days later Tiz and I went on a bus tour from Edinburgh to Stirling Castle, Loch Lomond and the Glengoyne whisky distillery; this was actually her Christmas present to me. Stirling Castle was amazing, with great views of the surrounding area as it was located on top of a hill. The entry fee was quite steep (£13, or about $20), but the guided tour was interesting and I wish we had been given a bit more time there. After a quick lunch of fish & chips in a village called Aberfoyle, we walked along the shores of Loch Lomond. It was a beautiful day for it, with temperatures reaching the very unusual high of about 16-17C (61-63F) in late March. From a hill by the side of the Loch we could see the real mountains of the Western Highlands to the north. Finally, we went to the whisky distillery which was not really my thing or Tiz's, but we managed to get a free sample each. It was a day greatly enjoyed by us both. 
  Finally, Tiz and I decided last week to visit Dunnottar castle, located near the village of Stonehaven south of Aberdeen. She and her mother visited last summer, and were very impressed and thought I should see it. It certainly did not disappoint. Dunnottar is one of those few places that looks stunning in photographs, but is actually more astounding in person. Bordered on three sides by steeps cliffs descending to the frigid North Sea, this castle offers absolutely incredible views, not to mention a history that includes William Wallace and the Crown Jewels of Scotland (albeit 350 years apart). Despite the fact that it's likely to be quite cold any time between September and May, I highly recommend Dunnottar to anyone and everyone. 
Well, it's bedtime in Istanbul and I must end there. Pictures are below, and expect a post about shenanigans in Turkey and Ireland very soon!

 The view from Stirling Castle

 Inside Stirling Castle

 Loch Lomond on a "balmy" day

 the approach to Dunnottar Castle

Dunnottar Castle as seen from a nearby cliffside

Looking Forward and Back

After being a bit lazy with my blogging (and not doing a whole lot of blog-worthy things) in February, I promise I have an exciting March ahead. I'm going to a wedding in Shropshire; yes that's a real place. And I'm also planning a trip to the Highlands, either Aviemore or Stonehaven. But let's recap late February, then.
Last week was "Innovative Learning Week" here at Edinburgh, which basically meant all the UK students went home and all the internationals traveled. I went down to England for Tiz's birthday, and split time between her student house in Brighton and her parents' house in Wiltshire. We celebrated Pancake Day, although British pancakes are more like crepes than the thick, filling American version. Instead of maple syrup, the most popular topping (or filling? like I said, they're crepes) is lemon juice and sugar. Also while in Wiltshire, we went to the indoor waterpark/leisure center/concert venue which allegedly gave 90s Brit-pop band Oasis its name. When I returned to Edinburgh on Monday, I received my first grade in the British system: a 66 on an essay. That roughly converts to an 86 on the American grading scale, so I was pretty pleased.

More details on the Highlands trip will be forthcoming. As always, comments are welcome.

British pancakes! Look like tortillas to anyone? (Photo credit: http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/basicpancakeswithsuga_66226)

Almost a Month

That's how long I've been in Edinburgh, although it doesn't really feel like it. I haven't done anything incredibly exciting (hence the gap since my last post), but in my situation even the little things are exciting. For example: coins actually having value (chew this over: the highest-value coin in the UK is worth $3.15- I will never carry around quarters again!). Or being decidedly old enough to order alcohol at a bar (I have been carded a grand total of once in 6 weeks in the UK, and that was at a supermarket). And of course, being able to buy alcohol at a bar using coins- who knew those could be worth something?
But in all seriousness, I do have at least one recent adventure which is noteworthy. Last Sunday, Tiz and I spent 3 hours each way on a bus between Edinburgh and Newcastle, the most northerly English city.  We drove through the historic Scottish Borders region, and then the Northumberland National Park just over the border into England. An inch or two of snow covered the ground during most of our drive down, and it was beautiful in the midmorning sun. The Scottish Borders does not have the tall mountains, dramatic valleys or jagged coastline of the Highlands region, but the gentler hills and meandering streams nonetheless have their charms. It was a shame that the drive back was too dark to give us a second glance.


It was also a shame that Tiz and I only spent about 3.5 hours actually in Newcastle; it's known as the best nightlife city in the UK. But we were there for a purpose: to see a Newcastle United football (soccer) match (game). I have been a Newcastle supporter from across the Atlantic for about 4 years now, and my only previous visit to the UK came during the off-season, so this was my first ever match. It turned out to be a terrific match; our Senegalese striking duo had just returned from national team duties, and each scored a goal in a 2-1 victory over Birmingham-area team Aston Villa. I witnessed the famed British football/drinking culture, which was actually a bit milder than I expected due to regulations preventing drinking in the actual seating area. Yes, just about every man in the stadium went to the concourse for a pint (or 3) before kickoff and during halftime. I also witnessed the cursing and middle-finger waving directed at an Aston Villa player named Darren Bent, whose crime was having formerly played for rival Sunderland. All in all, it was a great experience, and I will most likely be going to another match.


Questions or comment are greatly appreciated.

St. James' Park; I was in that corner that's in the left-ish background (photo credit http://www.seren.bangor.ac.uk/sport/2011/12/02/st-james%E2%80%99-park-a-52387-capacity-advert/)

Scottish Borders, snow-covered (photo credit http://www.jasonbaxterstocklibrary.co.uk/media/fb6062ba-c12e-11e0-ac34-7155f063007a-scottish-borders-winter-by-jason-baxter)

Climbing Arthur's Seat

This week has mostly been me doing boring things like adjusting to a new educational system, finding the nearest place to buy cheap housewares, and pressing the "boost" button on my room's heater every 30 minutes like clockwork. However, yesterday I was out the door at an ambitious 12:00 to embark on a slightly adventurous afternoon. First I went to the National Museum of Scotland, an eight-story architecturally stunning behemoth of Scottishness. Which is to say, I loved it. Actually, I only spent a little over an hour there and focused mainly on the sixth floor, an exhibit about 20th century changes in Scotland. But it was still very nice (and free!). After that I met up with a large group of international students who were climbing Arthur's Seat, an extinct volcano which stands 822 feet just about a mile or two from the city center. From here you can see the city just to the northwest, and probably 15 miles in every direction. On a clear day like yesterday, the views are simply stunning. Unfortunately, being January, it was also very cold and very windy. I'll definitely climb it again, but maybe not until May, when it should be much warmer.
Anyway, now might be a good time to divulge my future travels outside of the UK; currently there are only two confirmed. 
April 8-12: Istanbul with Tiz
April 14-20: Belfast and Dublin with brother James
A trip to Sicily may be in the works, but has not been finalized. As always, comments are welcome!

The interior of the National Museum of Scotland (photo credit http://www.edinburgharchitecture.co.uk)

 I took some pictures from Arthur's Seat, but this one is better (photo credit news.bbc.co.uk)

Moved In

So it's been a week since the last post, and unfortunately I have no pictures this time. Hopefully I will find the effort to get photos off my iPod touch by my next post. But first, Brighton! A short 50 minute train ride south of London, Brighton is about as far away as you can get from the seaside I'm used to. No warm, sandy beaches here; the water is too cold to swim year-round and the shoreline is composed of pebbles, not sand. To me, the most interesting part of town was 'The Lanes', an area of narrow pedestrian-dominated streets and walkways, which is lined with restaurants, independent shops and boutiques. It was the kind of place that clothes junkies like my sister Jennifer would love. I just liked the abundance of good food spots, like an inexpensive "street Thai" place that Tiz and I went with my visiting American chum Walker and his friend Maria on Thursday night. Anyway, if you prefer shopping to swimming, ditch Wrightsville Beach and head to Brighton. Views of France not included (the English Channel is too wide here).
On Friday Tiz and I arrived in Edinburgh after a quick plane ride from Gatwick, and after a night in the Hilton and dinner from an American-themed burger joint (pretty tasty, called Wannaburger), I moved in yesterday morning. Edinburgh is a beautiful city, with scenery unlike any other I've ever visited (and that list is getting respectably lengthy). For someone who has never lived in a city, or outside the state of North Carolina, or in a place that gets "properly" cold, there are a lot of adjustments to make. But I'm excited about everything. Classes start tomorrow, and I'll post about classes and other novel things within the week. As always, comments are welcome.

North and South

Tiz and I are finally in Brighton after spending Monday, Tuesday and Saturday nights in London and Wednesday, Thursday and Friday nights at her uncle's house in Bradford. We took megabus between London and Leeds each way, and were impressed with the price and punctuality (and I was amused that we drove halfway across the country in like 4 hours). On day 1 in the north, we went to a town called Harrogate, a relatively wealthy settlement in a region that, for the Americans reading this, is somewhat comparable economically to the "Rust Belt". It was windy and cold as hell, so I bought a jacket from Primark to wear as my fourth layer of clothing. The next day we went to Haworth, a village famous for being the hometown of the literary Bronte sisters. As an English lit student, Tiz was very excited to show me Haworth, but to my dismay (not really) the Bronte parsonage and museum was closed for the month. I had fish and chips (and MUSHY PEAS!) twice in Yorkshire, once at Tiz's uncle's house and once at a pub called The White Lion in Haworth.
Last night in London Tiz, our friend and host Sarah and I met up with my American mate Walker who is in the country for a couple of weeks. We had dinner at a Chinese restaurant that had a terrific view of the Tower Bridge (the photo below was taken from just outside). Then we went for a few pints at the Horniman's pub, chosen entirely due to its name, and thought of all our American friends who would love the pub atmosphere and the British legal drinking age. By Thursday I'll report on the British version of the seaside town. As usual, comments are welcome!

                     A fancy tea room in Harrogate. Yes, that is a cake trolley.

                    The pub in Haworth. Two giant Yorkshire puddings and one fish & chips.

                          Walker and I enjoying a few pints of cider. Profpic, Bristol?

                           Me, Walker and Sarah near the Tower Bridge

Tour of the Island

So I had a rather exciting weekend, visiting Tiz's friends and family. Actually right now I'm in South London, having just arrived today; on Wednesday we're doing a 4.5 hour bus journey to Leeds to stay with Tiz's uncle. Anyway, New Year's Eve British style was very fun, since I discovered that London's fireworks show (on TV) is just as entertaining as the Times Square thing we have in the states. We went to Tiz's friend Fiona's house and ordered Domino's. I learned that a UK large is a US medium, a UK medium is a US small, but at least you can get Tandoori chicken as a topping!
New Year's Eve was actually rather tame for me, as I was keen to go light on the alcohol having properly gone to the pub for the first time on the evening of the 30th. It was an interesting experience walking through a seemingly deserted village on a Friday afternoon, only to walk into "The Plough" and see dozens of people waiting around for 11:00 and last rounds. I have never been much of a drinker, but cider in this country is really, really good. On New Year's Day Tiz's mother cooked us a very English meal, complete with a Yorkshire pudding and gravy. I managed to bring some of the South to England with me in the form of my brother's pecan pie recipe that seemed to be a hit with the household.
In contrast to what you have been reading, this is not a food blog, but these past few days have been food-heavy and somewhat slow-paced. Hopefully by about Thursday I will have pictures of London and maybe Leeds/Bradford, where apparently some of the best fish and chips in England can be found. I promise I'll talk about something else in addition. As usual, comments are welcome!

                                       Outside the pub on a rather cold Friday night

              A variation of Yorkshire pudding (toad in the hole) on New Year's Day